DAY Twenty-One: Dusty Trail to Coldfoot

The dorm room at the University of ALASKA Fairbanks is nice, only $39 a night. But Deadhorse awaits Da'mit and I. On the road by 6:30, late by our standards. We talked until 11 pm last night with a father from Kansas and his son from Austin, Texas. They are riding a Honda Goldwing and a Harley Davidson. Going to Anchorage in the morning.They invited me to have dinner with them, I had already eaten so we talked. Did not reaalize how late it was as at 11 pm in Fairbanks, the sunlight looks like 7:30 in Texas.

The 75 miles of pavement from Fairbanks to Livengood, is a roller coaster of heaves, dips, sways, pitches, thrusts, drops, breaks and potholes linked together through a verdant corridor. All designed to keep the driver/rider in constant focus to maintain control of their vehicle. When a sign says pavement damage, one pays attention. as the size of the damage could do major damage to any vehicle that hits it wrong. Sometimes there is no sign, just orange cones on the side of the pavement.

Slow down when you see the cone.

A monor pothole

A serious heave in the pavement, note large block on the upper corner of photo

Finally we start up the Haul Road, officially known as the Dalton Highway. Alaska prefers to name thier major roads rather than give them a number. People are not going to believe me when I tell them that the temperature today on the Haul Road hit 82 degree, not a drop of rain. A week ago it was raining every day and freezing temperatures. The riding Gods favor me with great weather, pleasant rides and meeting wonderful people.

Da'mit is running great, ready to take on what ever the Haul Road can throw at us.

The Haul Road parallels the Alaska Pipeline.

A forest fire area of several years ago is greening up again.

The Yukon River in the background

The big Pipe

The sloping structure behind the pipeline is a the wooden deck bridge over the Yukon River.

The trees are shorter and thinner the further north one goes.

Pipeline goes straight, the road snakes along

Da'mit does the Circle visit.

 

Further north many ponds are still in snow and ice even though the temps were up to 80 today. Filled all the gas tanks fro the run to Deadhorse tomorrpow, then rode 5 miles up the road to the Marion Creek campground. A lot of campers there so no worries about bears.

 

They even have decks for those with tents. Here is my supper.

Now a quick viewing of my father's day present a few days early. Spotted a deep blue lake/large pond that I thought would make a good back drop for another photo of Da'mit, I know. Enough of the photos of Da'mit. But she is the reason for the adventure, to prove that Urals are more than adequete for cross country travel.

Once parked, walking to the water I spotted a large moose coming out of the tree line toward the water's edge, a hundred yards or so from me. The moose did not see me, so I quickly pulled out the Canon camera with the telephoto lens.

Here is what I got.....

Nite All,

 

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DAY Twenty-One : Fairbanks, Fresh Tires, Fouled Plugs

There is an elderly gentleman who lives in Corpus Christi, Texas who thinks that my cell phone number is that of his friend. So every couple of months he calls. This morning was one of those days. 3:30 AM (8:30 AM in Corpus Christi) he calls. Since my hearing is not what it used to be, the volume on my phone ringer is set on MAX! Woke me out of a deep slumber and everyone else in the surrounding camp sites.

Tried to shut it off asap but of course fumbled around in that not-yet-quite-awake mode without answering. Thirty minutes later he calls again. BY now am wide awake and so are my neighbors.

Had actually gotten quite cold in the night. Boiled some water for hot chocolate and ate a banana for breakfast. Pack up the camp and load Da'mit. Am on the road early, which normally is great for animal sighting, but not today. They all slept in,guess maybe no one tried to call them at 3:30 AM.

Stopped in North Pole, Alaska for a snap shot for the grandsons.

Santa likes grandpa's Da'mit.

Then on to Fairbanks and Adventure Cycleworks. Dan was already up and waiting when I pulled in. Dan is holding the three tires I mailed to him. He has a No-Mar tire mounting stand with their bars. We decide that the front tire is still looking good and no need to change it. Pulled the sidecar wheel and Dan mounted the new tires. He taught me a trick on how to remove an old tire and mount a new one without removing the inner tube. Pretty slick.

Since the new Heidenaur K37 tires have a higher lug pattern, the tire did not want to go under the sidecar fender. Had to angle it in and under to reinstall. Then we did the pusher tire. Not bad coming off, but a bit of a squeeze to reinstall the new tire. Da'mit is newly shod and ready for the Haul Road.

Will be due for an oil change when I get back from Deadhorse. Decided I should clean the air filter though. Loosen one screw to remove the end of the PVC air box, pull the filter out and give it a good shake. Sprayed the filter with K&N filter cleaner. Dan said he would take it inside to wash out. Later he returned with the filter clean and re-oiled.

When I fired up Da'mit to leave, it was running horrible. Shut it down and pulled both plugs. They were as black as midnight. Coming into to Fairbanks had noticed a slight hesitation. Plus have been thinking about going down a size with the main jets due to riding at a higher altitude than normal this last week. Proceeded to change the jets in Dan's driveway, dropping from 142.5 to 137.5. Changed the plugs too. Fired Da'mit up and still running way too rich. Plugs are again black. Dan started to think like the motorcycle mechanic he is, and a darn good one too, when I asked. "Dan, how much oil did you put on the filter?" "Like I have always done", he replied. "Spray all around and then spray it up and down." The Ural does not like a heavily oiled filter, only a light oiling or none at all. Thank god it is easy to pull the air filter. Out it came and we proceeded to de-oil it. Re-installed, Da'mit fired right up, running like normal. When I left she wanted to hesitate and cough when under load but within a couple dozen blocks of giving her full throttle, the problem cleared itself up. Is running like a top once again.

With the modern motorcycles, and cars too, when they start acting up, you have to have a computer to determine what is wrong. With the old school mechanical machines like Da'mit, a simple change can made a big difference in how they run, or don't run. At the same time they can be fixed on the side of the road, or out in the driveway with simple procedures and simple tools.

Dan of AdventureCycleworks in Fairbanks.

Rode over to the University of Alaska Fairbanks to see about getting a dorm room for the night. The former director of housing for the University, set up a program several years ago where riders passing through could rent an empty dorm room for the night. Only during the summer when most rooms sat empty. Got a room, $39 for the night, bathroom/shower down the hall.

Tonight we get everything organized for the ride up to Coldfoot tomorrow. Was hot and sunny in Fairbanks today. Trying to decide how to dress for the Haul Road. For rain? For Cold? For Hot Dusty?

Will decide in the morning.

Nite all,

 

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DAY Twenty - Alaska at last

Up later than normal, 6 am, but still out before most. The sun dances across the mountaintops, playing hide n-seek with itself, while the world sleeps...

 

Spotted two dark objects on either side of the road ahead. Looked like culverts, but then they started moving, one crossing the road. Slowed down as I got closed, Definitely bears....big grizzly bears. One large rich dark brown and the other more light brown.

HUDSON, HARRISON - THESE BEARS ARE FOR YOU....

The winds blowing from the north are strong when you cross the south end of Destruction Bay. This is one long lake, Kluane, where the wind has distance to pick up speed and force.

Am on the south end of the lake looking further south to the end of the valley.

Had to turn around and get a shot of this old trappers/goldminer's cabin on the south end of the Bay.

Notce the grass growing on the roof. This is common as the turf also adds insulation to the cabin.

After the bears, it was in and out of rain for the rest of the day. Did spot the hindsides of two moose in Alaska, mama and baby. But they disappeared into the brush by the time I could stop.

Da'mit sees another old war horse and has to stop to pay her respects. A 1942 GMC model....

 

Finally spotted one old moose feeding by the road side.

An Alaskan moose

Made it to ALASKA, in the rain, the roads are smoother, but the mountain tops are covered with clouds. so not much to see.

Was in Tok by 1:30 pm, gained another hour riding west, so decided to go for Delta Junction for the night. Delta Junction is the official end of the Alaska highway. But our challenge won't be over for until we reach Deadhorse.

Da'mit rode the Alaska Highway and survived, She deserves a patch, a sticker. or something.,.... how about fresh tires in Fairbanks?

Asked at a small modest motel in Delta Junction how much for the night... $130.00 was the answer. Am camping in a state park only 1/8 of a mile down the road from that motel, cost $10 per night.

It is a cool 55 degrees, nice for camping. The mosquitos are out in force though. I brought DEET 100% for the hands as I type and a mosquito net for the head. The rest is covered.

The couple with an RV in the spot next door invited me over for a beer and conversation. Ian and Carol are both police officers from the UK. They flew to Alaska, rented an RV and are exploring the state for two weeks. While we were talking, Carol noticed a small red fox squirrel carrying something white. Looks like a condiment package she says. Walking back to my campsite, I notice the food bag is open and the plastic ziploc with condiments has been chewed on. These no-account Squirrels are stealing the condiments I acquired from fast food places. What? Squirrels with no moral standards......

Long day, many miles covered. Tomorrow Da'mit gets new tires in Fairbanks. Then we start the final leg, up the Haul Road to Deadhorse.

Nite all.

 

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DAY Nineteen- R&M&L: Rest, Maintenance and Laundry Haines Junction

Have been riding for six days straight, time to take a break, do minor maintenance on Da'mit, a little laundry and read a book of poems by Robert Service.... one must recharge the human battery too.

Often called the bard of the Yukon, Robert Service wrote poems of his love for the Yukon, the far north and the goldminers of the 1890's. Sample from The Spell of the Yukon:

"There's a land where the mountains are nameless,

And the rivers all run God knows where;

There are lives that are erring and aimless,

And deaths that just hang by a hair;

There are hardships that nobody reckons;

There are valleys unpeopled and still;

There's a land - oh, it beckons and beckons,

And I want to go back - and I will"

 

Da'mit's engine oil looks good, of course I just changed it yesterday. Topped off the tranny oil, Final drive oil was good. Noticed a lot of red brake dust around the front disk and wheel. Checked the pads and decided to install new ones.

Is a warm sunny day in Haines Junction. Sitting outside eating peanuts while the clothes dried, the sun actually got hot. Is 1:30 pm now here, I can see the rain clouds gathering on the ridges and mountain tops, the temperature dropping. The only snow is at the highest elevations.

Forgot to mention the other day that I stopped in Coal River Crossing to take a photo. I have told this story many times of when I stayed here in September, 2010. The room was cold, down right freezing in fact. Could not find the thermostat or any thing to turn up the heat. Finally I dug out my down sleeping bag. Slept warm and comfy that night. The next morning, I spot in the hallway the thermostat with this sign next to it.

Gotta love the practical approach to life there in the far north.

 

Michael is her name and she fell in love with Da'mit. Had to know everything about my mechanical mule. If you are ever up this way, stop in at the

people are warm and friendly. Don't forget your sleeping bag if you spend the night.

Tomorrow we head for Tok, Alaska, but first have to go around Destruction Bay, Yukon. Photos to follow....

Nite all.

 

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DAY Eighteen - Watson Lake to Haines Junction

Again up and on the road by 5 ish, Walking out of the motel and the area is socked in with fog. Thick heavy damp fog. Great! Can't see that far. Not good for riding safely. Turned on the two fog lights mainly so other drivers can see me. Slowly tractor out of town, taking my time. Within 4 - 5 miles, the fog lifts and the sky is blue. Cold, but clear. Good day for riding.

Of course, before leaving Watson Lake, a visit to the Sign Forest is a requisite, even if it is foggy.

After seeing the menagerie of wildlifeyesterday, today is totally void of large animals. The most I could summon up were one fat rabbit, a marmot and two porcupines. So to anyone thinking of riding up this way, be aware that there is a large concentration of wildlife between Fort Nelson and Watson Lake.

Da'mit is due for his 12,500km oil change - had the oil, but no where to dump the used oil. Canada does not require oil retailers to accept used oil for recycling. Ted suggested that we ride the 300km to Whitehorse and I change the oil in his driveway. He said he knew someone who burnt waste oil in a space heater on construction sites. So we did.

 

After changing the oil, said goodby to Ted, his wife Barbara and son Liam. I rode solo on down to Carcross to see the famous sand dunes. Ted had said that Whitehorse is actually in a desert. One doesn't think of deserts being this far north.

From Carcross one can ride down to Skagway to caught the ferry to Haines. For Da'mit and me, it was back to the Alaska Highway just east of Whitehorse. Ferry's are not an accepted part of any Iron Butt ride. Gassed up in Whitehorse and lit out for Haines Junction, hoping to arrive before night fall. Never mind that it doesn't get dark until 10 or 11 now. I wanted to get a room for night by 6 pm.

Some photos from today

 

 

The Teslin River bridge is in the background. This is a bridge motorcyclists dread. It is the longest steel grating bridge one has to cross to get to Alaska.

Arrived in Haines Junction by 6;15 pm. Got a room and walked to a restaurant, Think the last of affects of the food poisoning from several days ago is finally gone. Had a plate of Chicken Fried Rice with a Coors Light. Feeling "calm" and hungry from not eating for a couple of days, threw caution to the wind. Went all the way - hot apple pie ala mode.

 

Had to hurry up and take the photo before it was all gone.

Tomorrow Da'mit and I should cross into Alaska to spend the night in Tok at a motorcycle campgrounds.

Today was not an exciting one, but we did rack up some miles. In other words, Da'mit and I took another bite from the Iron Butt elephant. Keep biting and keep chewing, before you know it we will be in Deadhorse.

Thanks to everyone for your patience and for following along with my little adventure. Other riders on two wheels would already be in Deadhorse by now. Da'mit and I are still a week away from being there.

Nite all

 

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DAY Seventeen - Bears, Bison and Bathing

On the road my 5 am, the only animal out that early was an old war horse from the 1942 building of the Alaska Highway, another Da'mit...

The temperature dropped and rains began. For the next three hours it was trying to keep the face shield clean and the fingers warm. Past Muncho Lake, Rocky Mountain Provincial Park, Summit Lake, all beautiful places but the clouds were low, the rain constant and the roads slick. All attention was on maintaining control of Da'mit in these conditions.

Stopped for gas, breakfast and to thaw out the fingers at Toad River Lodge. After warming up, Ted arrived for his breakfast, From inside we watched a rain front move in and leave. We are seeing more motorcyclists on the Alcan road now.

Saw the first black bear of the day,

Coming out of the Provincial Park, and dropping in elevation, the rains stopped and things started warming up.

We met other motorcyclists at the Liard Hot Springs Park

 

It costs $5 to get in, towel is $3 and a bathing suit is $3. So you really don't have to bring anything with you, just show up. Th water temperature was warmer, even down right HOT, if you got too close to the source of the spring. Very relaxing and a great way to thaw out the joints and muscles after riding in freezing rain.

Back on the road started seeing animals.. first the bison herd....

 

Off and on saw over 50 Bison today,. in herds and solitary.

Then spotted the another Black Bear, one of the seven spotted today

Then the grizzlies... saw six of those today. Also sighted caribou and mule deer, but no photos, sorry.

The herd of unshod territorial horses that roam free along the roadsides, crossing at will. Some riders come up thinking that they can ride these roads as fast as they ride back home. What they do not realize that there are many blind curves, hill crests where one cannot see what is on the other side and numerous wild animals that roam the roadside and on the road itself. The safest approach is to not ride any faster than you can see to stop.

Used the auxilary gas cans today as distances between gas is getting further and further apart.

Finally arrived in Watson Lake for the night..

Another rain cell is waiting to move in, need to get to the motel, unpack beforte it starts. Will stop at the Sign Post Forest in the morning.

All in all, an interesting day, rolled up lots of miles and saw a variety of wild game and interesting scenery. Even though I have ridden this road before, it is not boring at all. The weather changes how and what you can see in terms of scenery, animals and road conditions.

Now to rest, tomorrow on to Whitehorse.

 

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